For cleaning those brass rods of all residue from soldering paste and heat discoloration use alcohol or acetone with cotton swab.
And also brass tends to change color in this order (going from room temperature to almost melting point):
-goldish (original colour of non oxidised brass)
-copper red (in this stage you can just put soldering wire on it brass and it will melt on its own)
-pale copper red (in this stage surface tension of soldering mass that was put on joint will dissipate and capillary effect will pore soldering mass into all nooks and crannies)
-almost white (melting point)
These coloures will indicate what can be done with brass (if it is ready to be soldered, bent or elongated), but bare in mind that cold tool that you use to grip brass will immediately lower brass temperature in area of contact and around it.
Statistics: Posted by kamaz — Sat Oct 29, 2011 1:12 am
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Template can be made out of donor wheel from Panther/Jagdpnther, wich has to be reshaped in some small way.
Statistics: Posted by kamaz — Thu Oct 27, 2011 7:29 pm
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Now, there are many instruction sites around net, also great amount of films on Youtube, but they all come at the end on same few principles:
-soldering torch is used to heat up surrounding metal (in mine case brass) so that standard soldering wire can be used to solder parts together (soldering iron won`t do the jobe since it heats up just a portion of metal while other parts stay cool, since brass absorbs heat quickly, and at the end soldering mass won` t adhere as good as it should making the joint brittle)
-use sand paper to make joint surfaces rough, so that soldering mass can adhere to something
-use soldering paste (this will hepl soldering mass to adhere, lower heating point, prevent oxidation of joint surfaces)
-but before all, make a plan on what to solder in what step and make a sturdy holding mechanism for parts to be soldered, since heat will melt all surrounding soldering mass as you attemp to solder sometnig else there. For example, on mine ˝H˝ frame, as I firstly made those two parallel axles (they have two holders for lower axles), they had allready on them soldered parts, and as I progerssed to soldering connecting axle those holders soldered joints melted so I had to adjust them again.
Bare in mind that soldering mass can be remelted 2-3 times before it gets all impure of soot. If this happens you need to clean joint of all soldering mass and make new.
All in all it`s not so hard once you get a feel for it.
Statistics: Posted by kamaz — Wed Oct 26, 2011 9:41 pm
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Electronics are to be sorted out, but for now this is it. It has A-B-C transmitter, so it won`t jam transmitter from lowloader lowering mechanism. Also, note servos position---real RSO had rear drive, front sprocket wheels are just idlers.
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Statistics: Posted by kamaz — Tue Oct 04, 2011 9:57 pm
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Note that tracks are there temporary. RSO has some special wheels and suspension, so I`ll be doing that later.
Also I have to say that these servos (MG995) do have enough torque to power tanks as weel, and the best thing is that they are slow, so no need for gear ratio reduction.
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Statistics: Posted by kamaz — Tue Oct 04, 2011 9:47 pm
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However, I'd suggest keeping those electrics cos you WILL be needing them should you start using the traditional transmitter/receiver setup.
If you solder two 2.2k resistors to the old pot contacts you can then solder many exciting things to the old motor contacts. Thereby adding remote control to those exciting things. For example:
Add a relay - you get a remote controlled switch -turn on off your smoke unit from your remote, turn on/off lighting, etc.
Add a HL elevation or rotation motor setup and control that with your new radio setup.
OR connect back up to your servo motor assembly for a 'continous rotation servo" - connect your servo shaft to a 10k pot and you have remote control of your tanks sound volume
Cheers
Statistics: Posted by Phyrephish — Sun Oct 02, 2011 9:08 am
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Statistics: Posted by kamaz — Sat Oct 01, 2011 4:37 am
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Statistics: Posted by kamaz — Sat Oct 01, 2011 4:31 am
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But, let`s go on with this ugly one.
Here is servo...
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Statistics: Posted by kamaz — Sat Oct 01, 2011 4:22 am
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(it is from http://ww2drawings.jexiste.fr/Files/1-V ... /RSO-1.htm)
From this I made all needed measurements from full scale dimensions of the wiechle from Wiki.
But why this one?
Well I had spare plastic tracks from Panzer III, since I got Impact metal tracks for it, and since it was a shame for them to just sit there all useless...
Since this one has tera drive sprockets, and as you can see there is no room for HL transmission, only logical option was to use servos.
So I bought 4x servo MG955, metal gearing, ball bearing, high torque (around 13kg/cm on 6V, but many reviews say it is less). Two for this one, and two for MAN.
Also, according to those reviews, this servo is a piece of cr..., becuse it overturns angle you wanted, but then corrects itself. So if you are planing on using this in RC plane or heli---don`t...
Since I really don`t need any of them (only motor), there`ll be no problem.
Statistics: Posted by kamaz — Fri Sep 30, 2011 10:28 pm
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or
http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0975720/
is is RaupenSchlepper Ostfront version 3 from Steyr. Now Wiki has this
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raupenschlepper,_Ost
But as you all can se there is no picture od version 3. So to get a clear image of wht I`m doing here is a link that shows RSO-03 in a very good way:
http://www.sembado.com/photo/Dragon/6684/6684.html
Statistics: Posted by kamaz — Fri Sep 30, 2011 10:08 pm
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