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RC Tanks Australia Forum Remote Controlled Tanks Australia 2013-10-04T09:26:54+10:00 http://www.rctanksaustralia.com/forum/feed.php?f=147&t=769 2013-10-04T09:26:54+10:00 2013-10-04T09:26:54+10:00 http://www.rctanksaustralia.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=769&p=2791#p2791 <![CDATA[Re: is my mako faulty??]]> have been using heng long mushrooms

I will re -attack it in the morning and see if i can resolve it using the tips you mentioned
once again a big thanks
Graham

Statistics: Posted by teddyt — Fri Oct 04, 2013 9:26 am


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2013-10-04T07:37:24+10:00 2013-10-04T07:37:24+10:00 http://www.rctanksaustralia.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=769&p=2788#p2788 <![CDATA[Re: is my mako faulty??]]>
First up I was to again let everyone know about the QC process on MAKO. All MAKO, MAKO2 and RCXHL boards are tested for correct operation BEFORE shipping. This is so that if a problem does occur in the troubleshooting process I can pretty much eliminate a faulty board. In the vast majority of issues I get asked about the problem has been (sorry to say) user error OR other parts causing the problem.

If the MAKO is operating correctly in all other ways but one then it is most likely that the problem is not with the MAKO. The only exception to this is with the MAKO2 and the track recoil blocking function. If the there is a stalled motor, short circuit or other wiring fault in your tank that sends a surge through the system that surge can fry the relay on MAKO2 causing it to be come stuck in the ON position or the OFF position. The MAKO may continue to work fine but there is no recoil blocking if the relay is stuck at ON or no motors at all if the relay is stuck OFF.

Since your MAKO is sending IR then the program is running on the micro. You can not have only one part of the program running and not another part. It is all or nothing. Hence I would say the MAKO chip is fine and that the problem exists with the signal line from the IR sensor back to the MAKO chip.

Now first thing to do - if you have a MAKO with an onboard LED you should remove the LED jumper so it does not flash. You do not say if you have a Hammerhead connected or if you are trying to use hit indicating LEDs. On MAKO1 the hit leds and the input from the IR sensor (mushroom) are the same. If the on board hit indicating LED is on along with additional hit LEDs there is not enough signal in the line back to MAKO to register a hit so you should disable the onboard LED by removing the jumper.

If the above did not sort out the problem then you will need a multimeter to test the continuity of connection from MAKO all the way to your mushroom. But first I would try a different mushroom and I most certainly would not use a blue Taigen one. 50% of the time I have such a problem it is the mushroom that is at fault. Looking at your MAKO output connector (top right) numbering from the top of the board towards the centre

1. IR+
2. IR-
3. GND (HBU B-)
4. IR signal from mushroom (HBU Sig)
5. V+ (HBU 4.5V)

Your first two are OK if you are sending IR. 3-4 all go to the mushroom. Below is a pic of the pin outs of the mushroom. You need to make sure there is no break in continuity between the MAKO output and the mushroom.

IMG_3303_mod.jpg

So finally in response to your original question. Since you can fire IR it is highly unlikely the MAKO is faulty and that the problem exists with your line to and or your IR mushroom. If you can't sort out the issue than you are welcome to send it back here for me to check. If there is infact a problem I will fix and send the unit back FOC. If there isn't a problem it is a mere $3 for return postage. I will also update the MAKO chip to the latest firmware as well.

Cheers
Kevin Grannum

Statistics: Posted by Phyrephish — Fri Oct 04, 2013 7:37 am


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2013-10-04T02:30:34+10:00 2013-10-04T02:30:34+10:00 http://www.rctanksaustralia.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=769&p=2787#p2787 <![CDATA[is my mako faulty??]]> was cheap and thought i'd try before I spent loads on the latest mako

Statistics: Posted by teddyt — Fri Oct 04, 2013 2:30 am


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