DO NOT start your build before doing a complete dry run,
The hull needs fettling. almost every predrilled hole was too small and needed opening out and some holes just had not gone right through,
The instructions come on a CD and it is a very poor quality display.
I downloaded "TAMIYAS" PANZER 4 PDF and you can see that apart from the suspension which is different almost everything else is the same and it is the TAMIYA Drawings I refer to now.
A supply of nuts and screws are supplied but I find that most of the ones I am using are from my own sources,
And a "ROLSON TAP & DIE SET" has come in very handy.
If it sounds like I am giving it a hard time that would be a misconception, it is a nice piece of engineering that comes with all of the basic fixtures needed for a hull, although no wheels or rollers or sprockets or idlers or gearboxes,
But the suspension and track tensioners are included ( I discarded them for some meatier ones)
Shaun.
Statistics: Posted by jarndice — Mon Jul 11, 2016 7:39 am
]]>
]]>
We will continue to offer our other products, such as the RBU a 100% Tamiya compatible IR Battle Unit, and the custom PCB boards for interconnectivity. Please visit both of our sites and thanks.
Carl Steckler
Statistics: Posted by nyleatherneck — Wed Apr 01, 2015 11:44 pm
]]>
Nice to hear you are still around.
@ Afrikacorps - since Jussek's original post here almost ALL of the bigger RCTA boards feature a Flakpanzer option. MAKO2, Pantherturm, Taipan & there is a dual recoil mod for servo to recoil two canons at a time.
Basically how I deal with Flak is a mod to the usual cannon - so your flak only fires in a short burst- You can not (as yet) hold a switch down for continuous fire like you can for the machine gun. I have done it this way so that you can still have the machine gun and your flakpanzer has a limited number of rounds IF you are using it in IR battle.
My vision for using ASP in a flakpanzer follows as above BUT you get a specialized sirvoe unit that plugs into the recoil servo port. This sirvoe unit will provide BOTH flash rates and servo recoil IF you want to use it - You can use the sirvoe unit just to drive the flashes.
BUT - ASP is still a few weeks away as I have redesigned the motor section as there has been too many grumbles about the AMP output of the previous chip. The newer chips triple the amperage BUT they are a new design which are even smaller. (How does that work??) These tiny chips require a specialized PCB production process.
Till then a specialised sirvoe unit could work with an EL Mod to give you synced flashes.
Cheers
Kevin G
Statistics: Posted by Phyrephish — Tue Mar 24, 2015 7:18 am
]]>
I am interested to know how Jussek is going with his build. ( I know it has been a while since his last wirbelwind post )
I have the same resin and alloy kit from Germany.
I have almost finished my build, but am still deciding on what electronics to use.
First thought was HL just to get it going, then change to Elmod.
Now i am very interested in Asp / taipan. ( Not sure if the sound for the quad flak will work )
Any suggestions are welcome.
Cheers
Steve
Statistics: Posted by Afrikakorps — Mon Mar 23, 2015 9:32 pm
]]>
first of all, i have to apologize for not pots in so much time.
This project is in standby by now. I will finish it for sure, but I've been fully committed to design my club's yard layout and the building of A LOT of defensive positions we will install in our scenery.
best regards!
Statistics: Posted by Jussek — Mon Mar 23, 2015 8:33 pm
]]>
In fact, i don't think he has sent any more wirbelwind posts to other rc tank forums for a couple of years. He was at a similar build stage on another forum when he stopped posting.
I have the same resin kit and have almost finished building the wirbelwind but have not made the four barrels to recoil ( in the too hard basket).
I was curious to know what electronics he was going to use ?
For me, Elmod was suggested, however i am very interested in Asp / Taipan.
Does the Asp sound card alloy for different gun sounds and rates of fire ?
The quad flak is quite a difficult proposal, with a rapid fire almost like a slow mg but a deeper and louder sound.
Do you have any suggestions ?
Cheers
Steve
Statistics: Posted by Afrikakorps — Mon Mar 23, 2015 8:28 pm
]]>
Please note that the last post from Jussek was about 2 years ago. I could be wrong but I doubt that you will get a reply in the near future.
Cheers
KG
Statistics: Posted by Phyrephish — Sun Mar 22, 2015 7:31 pm
]]>
The metal for the gun mechanism is very soft and will be difficult to drill.
If you replace the model barrels with alloy or brass tubing, will you make your own muzzle flash cones ?
I look forward to seeing more of your wirbelwind build.
Cheers
Afrikakorps
Statistics: Posted by Afrikakorps — Sun Mar 22, 2015 10:59 am
]]>
I really must get back to it.
On a side note - I have been informed that Profiline are no longer in business. They have sold their molds to Asiatam. It is expected that these great kits will still be available in the future from Asiatam.
Cheers
KG
Statistics: Posted by Phyrephish — Sun Apr 06, 2014 6:09 pm
]]>
]]>
NYLeatherneck
Statistics: Posted by nyleatherneck — Thu Jul 11, 2013 2:37 pm
]]>
here you are the weekend work
Step by step, this project is advancing slowly…
do you remember the empty shells container I cut off? So I used this resin piece, cut in half, to build the two supports to screw together the turret and the black toothed ring. I sanded them to make them fit the inner curve of the turret ring, and used araldite to glue them to this ring. After this was rock solid I did drilled the holes for the screws to get into.
Next step was to use milliput to fill all the recesses, craves, holes, etc. After cured, I sanded and sanded until the turret base was smooth enough.
I also started to build the interior H support for the flak, and the flak base. This is v1.0, the v2.0 is already on the works (no pics yet)
These pics would show how the parts will be interconnected when done
Now, the bad news. The metal guns are like sh@#t... I used a column support for the drill, in order to hold firm the piece in vertical position, and slowly drill out the centre, but to no avail, the material is so soft that it broke
So, I have already ordered from Knupfler 3 tubes that will fit one inside other, in Ø3mm, Ø4mm and Ø5mm. I plan to cut away the entire gun tube, then drill the gun body. In this way it will be only 10mm needed. Then i will put the new gun tubes…
I've already started to build the flak central body with 1mm plastic card, so it will be empty and then i could put the guts inside... no pics yet.
best regards
Statistics: Posted by Jussek — Mon Apr 15, 2013 7:06 pm
]]>
here you are the work of some days. It's difficult and I've to work carefully on the flak and tower, bit a bit and thinking every step beforehand...
first, the commander/gunner's seat. His arm was the ONLY connection between turret and gun, and the turret was rotated when the gunner rotated the flak wheel. In this kit the arm is flat, in one resin piece, so i cut it and recreated the elevation supports for the seat:
here, the elevation arm syncro, when the guns are raised, this arm raised the sights too. I made it moveable:
on the other piece, i also cut a part, it's from where the empty shells are expulsed, and they where thrown on a box located there. But in the Wirbelwind there was not enough space for this box, so it was not mounted. In substitution a bag was located inside the hull.
this is the linealvisier 21, and the ground fire scope on his side
and finally, the turret. A lot of work, a lot of calculation to be done (i can't have a miss!)
next step would be make the supports to screw the turret support to the turret ring, and fill all holes with putty...
best regards
Statistics: Posted by Jussek — Fri Apr 12, 2013 9:18 pm
]]>
some little progress, the main works on the hull are almost done, i will start with the turret next...it will be no easy to adapt the turret i bought to the hull...
the supports for the replacement barrels boxes
the boxes themselves
the frontal hooks and his chains
i'm finishing the frontal bar for holding the reserve track links, no pics yet.
and a weld line to fill the space between the back plate and the upper hull
that's all for now
best regards!
Statistics: Posted by Jussek — Thu Apr 04, 2013 7:40 pm
]]>