The last time I was annoyed around with a remote control which has been found to be unsuitable. This thing has brought me almost to despair.
After some functions such as the brake and also the sound module either not, or only gelegendlich worked and the tank does not move to this was to drive straight, but turns to the left and then turned off to the right again, I have a couple of days needed to get behind what going wrong. I usually try remote control unit to adjust model, but on this, I then have to conclude that the round deflections only max. Accounted for 90% of the usual way and can not be adjusted on the transmitter, since it can not be programmed. This has ever explained the non active brake and shift problems in Beier. Additionally, I had to realize that the digital trims every stick throw disguised self thereby driving was very difficult, the sound module lost the neutral position and the sound of the catastrophe was. Also what was missing was an expo on the transmitter function so the commands were very hard.
Such a station is not useful so I got a Gaupner MX12 in consultation with his later works, the owner always excellent.
This time I have now connected the driving functions and user programmable.
So I then finally be able to make a reasonable test drive.
Now I must again tomorrow just to play new sound to the sound module as the old programming by the experiments is not running properly. But the switching functions are now all in order.
Statistics: Posted by Edwin — Thu Oct 24, 2013 2:37 am
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First off even attach the servo for the recoil .
Then the second servo for elevation each . I'm using since only servos with metal gears , as these sometimes bear a blow and not go the same gear broken.
To drive the switch to the speed camera I've thought of something new . Since the gun is not usually play out , it was difficult to place a button so that it always triggers . Well -built probe enable the large tolerances were not always successful . Therefore I now have a push rod that is installed , just before the switch. Thus , the tube can move as it wants and the button is still addressed and the flash fires .
Now, he stands there and tomorrow I will deal with programming and setting of the sound module and a few remaining tasks . He sollter then can go to its new owner this week .
Statistics: Posted by Edwin — Thu Oct 10, 2013 11:47 pm
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Even the LED's provided by the headlamp and the MG with a matching resistance and solder it to the connector.
The connections to the module Beier not forget.
And a little clean up in the hull.
Then the tower of the series, the first obstacles as I can.
Since I still have begun to build the cradle with the power requirements. Tomorrow will be finished so the technique.
Statistics: Posted by Edwin — Thu Oct 10, 2013 1:37 am
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I look since I'm already here, what are you doing and offering.....
I also have the link to your site already passed on to a friend and sent you on your projects a PM
regards Edwin
Statistics: Posted by Edwin — Wed Oct 09, 2013 8:16 pm
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Your work has inspired me to create a board for you. It is similar to that micro motor controller you are using except it is a bit bigger and allows for the control of two motors (turret and elevation)
geko3d.jpg
The wire connections are a bit further apart so you can solder on terminal blocks or the motor wires directly. The PCB are being manufactured right now and when completed and if the board works as it should I'd like to send you one to test.
Cheers
Kevin G
Statistics: Posted by Phyrephish — Wed Oct 09, 2013 8:58 am
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Here I have the main wiring harness of the tank ......
And by the way, I am still in the last two days for car and transmitter employs coordinated. This is somewhat difficult since these channels do not offer those options usually used by me, but now he goes ....
Statistics: Posted by Edwin — Wed Oct 09, 2013 12:29 am
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I build again the plastic together and place the battery divided on both sides.
Then I have already begun to connect Beier sound module.
After I had unpacked the transmitter I have read through the manual myself first, since I have not had this and was nowhere to be found in the manual, the polarity of the receiver. It was only when I looked at the label of the receiver exactly could I find the remnants of the markings as the connectors are plugged in properly after an hour. And so it goes further up next time.
Statistics: Posted by Edwin — Sun Oct 06, 2013 1:14 am
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Yesterday my daughter has built a little further on Tiger ..... (under my guidance)
First, we have built the attachment of the upper hull. At the front and inside of the front slope, it has adhered to a connector made of plastic.
Thus, the structure is kept secure and can forward backward Dodge in collisions with obstacles before major damage occurs.
At the back we have again built a bracket with two magnets. Which can be solved with blows from the front, the upper part has nevertheless firmly in the driving mode and the opening and closing a breeze.
It continues with the speaker. Base and lid are already available, but must still be adjusted slightly.
And so this is also formed slowly. It just takes a little longer if you have never done it, but that does not matter. This is the first Tiger to the woman also helped build .....
Statistics: Posted by Edwin — Fri Oct 04, 2013 7:27 pm
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Some interesting bits there.
Ian.
Statistics: Posted by Tankbear — Wed Oct 02, 2013 4:07 am
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You can control this and much more find for Micro Models on this page.
http://www.sol-expert-group.de/1-87-mod ... anguage=en
regards Edwin
Statistics: Posted by Edwin — Wed Oct 02, 2013 1:51 am
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After I've soldered the second drive axle, both annealed and cleaned it comes to installation. The case I fill again completely imt on graphite grease.
Then, the lid must be screwed.
The chain wheels are adapted to a bit of the lathe.
So then they fit exactly over the counter.
And the chain track fits perfectly.
Yet set the suspension at the jacked-tub. The best way to choose if you match strips inserted under the wheels so that they rest at just the right height to adjust the individual rollers. You can say that at least make adjustment in the Bassis.
The chains still mounted. regulator and soldered and programmed for the first test drive.
And of course again a little video of the first ride outdoors.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3tmt7Y1P ... e=youtu.be
Statistics: Posted by Edwin — Tue Oct 01, 2013 1:55 am
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So I am now just been added to shorten the drive shafts to length and hard to solder with the output gear.
For this purpose I first checked with the on-axis position where the gear is soldered and then roughened with a belt sander.
So that the solder is a good connection between the axle and gear I had to hone a few notches in the gear.
So I could then hard-soldering.
Now one must still turn on the solder joints and make everything clean with a rubber polishing wheel.
I even brush your teeth with a small stainless steel brush. So they are not damaged and still all coverings removed from soldering.
Statistics: Posted by Edwin — Mon Sep 30, 2013 1:49 am
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After I glued the plastic plates yet processed the rear now looks like this.
By the way I again drilled new housing for the countershaft and milled. In this I have to cut each 15 times an M1, 2 thread again.
This works best when used for tapping a good cooling lubricant emulsion. This I fill out the blind holes using a syringe.
If one cuts the threads in the filled holes, the liquid is forced out of the taps and rinsed with the chips. So the tap stuck not so easy.
Then the gear assembly could begin in the tub and it must take time.
So I have properly aligned with each other and now the gearbox bolted to the counter and sealed enclosures.
Statistics: Posted by Edwin — Sun Sep 29, 2013 12:48 am
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Today I first mounted the rollers and idlers and set the track this.
Next was the adjustment of the upper hull of the series. This again seems to come from a new form. I had to practically nothing even though I will always be ewas excess.
The front must be doubled at the inside a little.
So now you can customize with a little spackle the Sater.
To install the transom with non-fixed I glue the sides with tape. Since no glue holding it and I get the part back from the resulting bracket.
So I can now glue the sides and then the bottom end.
This must now first again harden overnight and tomorrow we continue with the tub.
Statistics: Posted by Edwin — Sat Sep 28, 2013 1:06 am
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