Statistics: Posted by Ed63 — Mon May 30, 2016 7:20 pm
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An Egyptian SU100
Converted from a WSN T34
And here's the build so far.
Using servo recoil
Playing around with ideas to convert the wheels
Tidy up inside for bigger speaker
Weld Lines
Hidden battle unit construction
Sensors and LED built into tank
Took it battling today and performed brilliantly.
Ian.
Statistics: Posted by Tankbear — Mon Apr 21, 2014 7:29 am
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Cause all the trouble you want. What you are doing and your tanks are exceptional and I feel very happy that you have taken the time to post on the RCTA forum.
Cheers
KG
Statistics: Posted by Admin — Tue Aug 20, 2013 9:10 pm
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thanks for your help. I want to cause no trouble, but sometimes there is a little start-up problems.
regards Edwin
Statistics: Posted by Edwin — Mon Aug 19, 2013 9:34 pm
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The lower tray, drive, drive with suspension and the tower is built completely by myself.
The tray and the drive is built from aluminum. The drive is equipped with two brushless motors and real inertia.
See for yourself
[img]
http://up.picr.de/13892281kz.jpg[/img]
In here, I also have a little video that I recorded on exhibition.
regards Edwin
Statistics: Posted by Edwin — Sat Aug 17, 2013 8:20 pm
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First was replace the main gun LED again as it had blown, bit of a pain in the butt as needed to split the main barrel again.
Next was to revisit the IR emitter and tube, as it was a bit too long and difficult to hit targets more than a 5m away.
So made new tube from some rolled up drinks tin and glued in place with some hot glue.
Also opened the hole in the mantlet again as I think this was blocking some of the IR rays.
Now got the perfect 9mm length tube.
Ian.
Statistics: Posted by Tankbear — Sun Dec 30, 2012 10:20 pm
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With the volume I found the original T34 wasn't that good a simple knock causing the sound to stop. Good point about the LiFe battery I hadn't thought about that route.
Regarding the MAKO I tried the new chip with it all wired up to a 7.2v battery but still hadn't changed. But like I said I've put to one side for know to figure it out another time. Looking forward to the new MAKO boards and videos.
Ian.
Statistics: Posted by Tankbear — Mon Dec 17, 2012 8:47 am
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Keeps the T-34 post coming. Just a few comments presented only to provide info on some alternatives for those wanting to follow in your footstep and up the ole T-34. Again just my 2 cents nothing more....
Volume Pot:
Changing the volume pot to a 'better quality' one will not do anything for the sound and only decrease your bank balance unfortunately. Pots and audio are a subject all to themselves. The most important factor with pots for audio is not so much 'quality' but the rate at which the resistance changes with the turning of the dial. So it is HOW the volume changes as you turn the dial rather than the 'quality' of the sound that deterimines a 'good' pot for audio. As such 'good' audio pots are needed in situations like studios where you need precise control over volume - not so much in situations where the volume is pretty much set and forget.
Still the sound can only be as good as the weakest link in the chain and that is the RX18.
I created the Pothead/Viper specifically for situations like yours. Where moving the volume control from underneath the tank was important. Especially if you want to run through the odd puddle of water.
Remove the old pot fill in the hole so water can't get in and plug in a PotHead/Viper - job's right and done in a minute or two. With the added bonus of never having to bend down to adjust the volume of your tank.
Battery:
Your battery situation - another option for anyone else following in your footsteps would be to investigate use of a 3 cell LiFe battery. LiFe batteries are a form of LiPo that outputs 3.2/3.3 volts per cell and hence provide very close to the 9.6 volts of the AA battery pack. In the long run the LiFe will be more economical. The same LiFe battry that could be used in this situation can also be used to power the Turnigy 9X. This is the battery I use and it is available in the HK UK warehouse:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... _Pack.html
As for the charging - that is exactly how I wire my tanks as well. (but if you were to use the LiFe battery you would need some extra bits)
Now as from an earlier post - I am concerned that you are sending 9+ volts into the RX18 and thus onto the MAKO. This will not be an issue for next gen MAKOs but will be an issue for the MAKO you have. I would get the tank all up and hold off on plugging in the MAKO for the time being. Also I would not connect the usual Heng Long IR electrics to the battle port either as you will be sending 9+v to the IR emitter.
Phil (my video producer) & I have scored the iPad for today so expect a video of the next gen MAKO very soon.
Cheers
KG
Statistics: Posted by Phyrephish — Mon Dec 17, 2012 8:10 am
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Well I received my V3 MAKO chip earlier this week but has been too cold to do much tank work through the week (-5C
), so had a go yesterday. Fitted the new MAKO chip and still same as before so decided I take it all out for now and will have a closer look another time.So back to the T34.
First was add a charge port. I know a lot of people cut out the battery box in favour of the usual 7.2v battery, but I find it too slow as the motors are rated for 9.6v not 7.2v so I'm keeping the battery box, but removing 8 AA batteries to recharge is a pain so I decided a charge port is the easiest solution.
Now mine had a mini-tamiya connector in the battery box for a recharge battery pack
I simply cut off the connector, added a deans socket and moved the positive to the other side of the switch. (this means will only charge in the off position)
Little hole in the hull
Deans socket pushed in and glued
Next job is change the volume control to a better quality one
Just a little sticking out the bottom to twist.
Ian.
Statistics: Posted by Tankbear — Sun Dec 16, 2012 9:19 pm
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