Merry Xmas
Statistics: Posted by Phyrephish — Fri Dec 23, 2011 2:48 pm
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Statistics: Posted by TANKBOY — Fri Dec 23, 2011 8:38 am
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Thanks, and yes it will work with your setup. Not because you have the Eco but because you have the totally awesome tankER9X firmware installed on your 9X.
To setup you would use either of the spare channels 7 or 8. You connect the recoil servo directly to the receiver bypassing the Eco and use the speed up and speed down controls to fine tune the speed of your recoil.
When you are ready to set it all up call me if you need a hand.
Cheers
Kevin
Statistics: Posted by Phyrephish — Tue Dec 13, 2011 2:43 pm
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Would that setup work with El Mod Eco
And congrats on the 500 posts mate
Cheers
Gra
Statistics: Posted by Gra — Tue Dec 13, 2011 10:01 am
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Cheers
Kevin G
Statistics: Posted by Phyrephish — Mon Dec 12, 2011 11:12 pm
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You can make that whole plate pivot around one point.
Statistics: Posted by kamaz — Wed Nov 23, 2011 7:24 pm
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Will have to do that mod to my tanks
Cheers
Gra
Statistics: Posted by Gra — Mon Nov 21, 2011 7:41 am
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SU-76i_Recoil_01.jpg
SU-76i_Recoil_02.jpg
SU-76i_Recoil_03.jpg
Finally a little video of it all in action...
Statistics: Posted by Phyrephish — Sun Nov 20, 2011 10:40 pm
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Wow has it been that long? A lot has changed in the past 5 months. The biggest change has been my move to the standard 2.4 gHz radio system. This has been a bonus for the SU-76i allowing the elevation and recoil of the cannon to be controlled by servos (more later) rather than an Asiatam recoil system.
The SU-76i will now be controlled by a SGS-Electronic TVC-TRF10 module and powered by a 2200 mAH LiPo battery which is small enough to fit ACROSS the Pz III chassis. I was dubious at first with such a battery but now I am a big fan. Plenty of run time, I get bored driving the tank before the battery runs low. Reducing the battery size allows for installation of a Visaton FRS-7 speaker and even leaves some room at the rear for me to design a compact smoke unit. The inside of the hull is shown below.
pziii_sgs_inside.jpg
I hope to post next the cannon recoil and elevation setup. Stay tuned....
Statistics: Posted by Phyrephish — Sun Nov 20, 2011 8:53 pm
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Here is a short update on the progress so far.
The exhausts were drilled out so that smoke will now exist them correctly. The exhaust 'shield' was made to look a bit 'beaten up' by using a hobby knife to make a few small cuts (as shown) before applying a bit of heat from a heatgun. The original riviets and detail on the back armour plate were removed and new brass conical rivets are to be used. However, I have run out and will need to order some more.
I also plan to install a Schumo crank-start cover but I can't seem to find where I have put it and may need to order another of those as well
The protective screen underneath is made from flyscreen and styrene. I actually prefer the flyscreen to the commercial PE screen as the flyscreen bends and gives a better 'used' look.
Statistics: Posted by Phyrephish — Wed Jun 01, 2011 2:05 pm
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The front spare track bracket is made from a 3mm wide strip of brass which is then 'laminated' with styrene strip. To make this bracket with brass alone the brass needs to be at least 0.8 mm thick but I didn't have any. I did have and can easily get thin 3mm brass strip from http://www.gwydirvalleymodels.com Actually I bought a heap of strip when they were here at the Brisbane Train Show earlier this month. So I made the bracket with the thin brass and then made it the correct thickness by laminating on a strip of styrene as shown below.
Note: In the pic above I have not yet added the two little bolts at the ends of the bracket. Using thin brass turned out to be fortuitous as the ends of the bracket can now be 'clamped' into place with the transmission covers.
The other issue with the frontal armour are the screws that hold what I'll call 'the lip' in place. If you remove the yucky plactic spare track it will expose these two screws. All I do is make up some super strong expoy (the 24 hour type) and really apply it onto and around the lip. When the epoxy is set I then remove the screws. Also the square holes in the front used for the attachment of the yucky plastic track are filled with putty.
Leaving the nuts in place means that in case your expoy fails you can replace the supplied screws with countersunk ones or even use grub screws (inserted from the INSIDE of the chassis).
Statistics: Posted by Phyrephish — Sun May 22, 2011 3:44 pm
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Pistol Port
Well I'm calling it a pistol port but I'm sure if I was in there I'd be sticking a sub-machine gun out the port.
Lower Hull Modifications
For this project I am using the Asiatam Pz III metal hull with metal wheelsets. There are just a few cosmetic things that need doing on the Asiatam hull.
1. Install Escape Hatches.
Most of the SU-76i pics I've seen show escape hatches on the lower hull. However, the Asiatam hull has these hatches missing. Commercially available hatches don't exist so I made up some resin casts from a Heng Long hull. If you are after such hatches they will soon be available for purchase at rctanksaustralia online shop.
One of the few things I'm not all that keen on is the metal front of the Asiatam hull. Below you can see that I've glued on a thin styrene sheet over the front. To do this I removed the screws that hold the front lip and super-epoxyied the lip back in place. Also constructed is a new bracket for the spare track links.
Statistics: Posted by Phyrephish — Tue May 17, 2011 4:50 pm
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Statistics: Posted by Phyrephish — Wed May 11, 2011 11:13 pm
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