RC Tanks Australia Forum

This Vehicle came with a barrel made of clear plastic sprayed black, which then acted as a sort of fibre optic to transmit the muzzle flash for the cannon. This clear plastic is quite brittle and me being clumsy I managed to break it into 3 pieces. I successfully managed to pin and repair the barrel (see the previous pics in this thread), but it meant I lost the muzzle flash.

Today I went to the model train shop in Eastbourne and bought some aluminium tube and a length of fibre optic to make a replacement barrel. I am glad to say I was able to fabricate one and I now have muzzle flash once again, as well as a much more sturdy barrel.

Hi Chaps,

Looking for some thoughts and opinions from you please.

I picked up some 25mm m10 washers today which are a perfect fit for the inside of the PzrIII road wheels this bradley is currently sporting. My idea is to glue them over the holes in the wheels as the Bradleys wheels are solid. Here is a pic with the Pzr wheels on the left and with the washers added on the right. Please have a look and let me know your thoughts.



Thanks

Paul

Hi Scalawag,
Any pics of the real wheel?? Not no anything about the Brad?
It looks good but seems to stick out (from the photo anyway) how thick is the washer and could you bevel the side so it fits in flush on the P111 rim?
A way I will check out some pics to see if what I said is a load of jibber isn.

Keep up the great work mate

Cheers
Gra

_________________
Gra's Heavy Tank Regiment
HL Tiger 1 - El Mod, Tiger 1, K T Porsche turret, Panzer III & IV, Stug G & E, Panther D,
Matorro KT, Jagdtiger and Sturmtiger, HL Sherman and T - 34, A7V (WIP)
Panzergruppe South Member

Just checked out some wheel pics, I think a slim (like .13 or .25 ) styrene inserted in side the wheel then you can stick on some bolts heads. Cause they are just like most modern wheels with the side wall being on one side not the middle or where ever.
Or just an other thought maybe insert 2mm rod or what size to fill the holes and then stick a bolt head on top. You could file any flange/ridge flat smear some putty and then bolt heads lol.

Cheers
Gra

_________________
Gra's Heavy Tank Regiment
HL Tiger 1 - El Mod, Tiger 1, K T Porsche turret, Panzer III & IV, Stug G & E, Panther D,
Matorro KT, Jagdtiger and Sturmtiger, HL Sherman and T - 34, A7V (WIP)
Panzergruppe South Member

I have now added stowage to the rear bin, and added some extra camo net to the rack on the rear left.



I have also begun the figures for the turret. These are resin figures from AFV. The heads and bodies are sold separately. These have been cleaned up a bit ( still a bit more to go), and have been adjusted to fit the hatches. The heads are resting on the bodies at the moment as I like to paint them separately.




Paul

On to figure painting.

The heads have been mounted onto toothpicks to make painting easier.

Next all the flesh tone areas where given a coat of matt white. This forms the undercoat for the flesh tones.



I then painted in the eyes, only one figure to do here as the other has goggles on. I added 2 rough irises using mid blue, and then added the pupils in gloss black. It does not matter too much if these go over the edges of the eyeball onto the lids, as the lids will be painted in afterwards this can all be covered then. I apologise for the poor picture I should have checked it before moving on.



Next I added red brown where all the shadows will be in the faces. Studying faces to see where the light and shadow falls will give you an idea of this. There is also shadow around the neck from collars and under hat brims etc.... This forms an under paint for the flesh tones which will be added next. I used red brown here for the underpainting as these figures will be quite tanned and the brown gives a warmth to the shadowing. To achieve a look of soldiers in a colder environment I would use a grey for this step instead.






These are then left to thoroughly dry before the Flash tones are added.

Paul

Flesh tone has now been added. I used a 4-1 mix of Tamiya Flesh and Tamiya red brown to create a slightly warmer more tanned look to the flesh tone. This was then applied in several thin layers. This is where I find working with acrylics more difficult as they touch dry quite quickly. Add thin layers of the flesh tone until the underpainting is almost completely covered, you don't want it to be too obtrusive through the flesh tone.





Paul

The bradley now has Pzr IV sprockets, idlers and road wheels with metal tracks now. All fitted painted and weathered. I think this is an improvement over the Pzr III running gear it did have.




more on the figures tomorrow I hope.

Cheers

Paul

A bit more done on the figures.

They have had a wash around the dark shadow areas, ears, eyes, nose and mouth in Mig brown for dark yellow filter. The uniform parts have also had a base coat of Tamiya desert yellow. this is a six colour camo pattern with this being the dark sand yellow base colour.




Paul