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1/16 RSO-03 http://www.rctanksaustralia.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=111&t=229 |
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Author: | kamaz [ Fri Sep 30, 2011 10:08 pm ] |
Post subject: | 1/16 RSO-03 |
So, yeah... It`s not RSO as in: or http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0975720/ is is RaupenSchlepper Ostfront version 3 from Steyr. Now Wiki has this http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raupenschlepper,_Ost But as you all can se there is no picture od version 3. So to get a clear image of wht I`m doing here is a link that shows RSO-03 in a very good way: http://www.sembado.com/photo/Dragon/6684/6684.html |
Author: | kamaz [ Fri Sep 30, 2011 10:28 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: 1/16 RSO-03 |
Now, since this one is more or less hard to find in blueprints/drawings, somehow I found this nice drawing on wich (when I printed it it came in 1/16.01 scale) p1.jpg (it is from http://ww2drawings.jexiste.fr/Files/1-V ... /RSO-1.htm) From this I made all needed measurements from full scale dimensions of the wiechle from Wiki. But why this one? Well I had spare plastic tracks from Panzer III, since I got Impact metal tracks for it, and since it was a shame for them to just sit there all useless... Since this one has tera drive sprockets, and as you can see there is no room for HL transmission, only logical option was to use servos. So I bought 4x servo MG955, metal gearing, ball bearing, high torque (around 13kg/cm on 6V, but many reviews say it is less). Two for this one, and two for MAN. Also, according to those reviews, this servo is a piece of cr..., becuse it overturns angle you wanted, but then corrects itself. So if you are planing on using this in RC plane or heli---don`t... Since I really don`t need any of them (only motor), there`ll be no problem. |
Author: | Phyrephish [ Fri Sep 30, 2011 10:36 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: 1/16 RSO-03 |
I like the first model better |
Author: | kamaz [ Sat Oct 01, 2011 4:22 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: 1/16 RSO-03 |
Well, to be honest, me too! But, let`s go on with this ugly one. Here is servo... P9300548.JPG P9300552.JPG P9300555.JPG P9300557.JPG P9300561.JPG |
Author: | kamaz [ Sat Oct 01, 2011 4:31 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: 1/16 RSO-03 |
Unscrew this small screw that holds potentiometer from within servo. P9300562.JPG P9300563.JPG P9300564.JPG P9300565.JPG P9300566.JPG P9300568.JPG P9300569.JPG |
Author: | kamaz [ Sat Oct 01, 2011 4:37 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: 1/16 RSO-03 |
P9300570.JPG P9300571.JPG P9300575.JPG P9300578.JPG P9300580.JPG P9300581.JPG P9300585.JPG P9300586.JPG P9300587.JPG P9300588.JPG |
Author: | Phyrephish [ Sun Oct 02, 2011 9:08 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: 1/16 RSO-03 |
Great little photo tutorial Kamaz. However, I'd suggest keeping those electrics cos you WILL be needing them should you start using the traditional transmitter/receiver setup. If you solder two 2.2k resistors to the old pot contacts you can then solder many exciting things to the old motor contacts. Thereby adding remote control to those exciting things. For example: Add a relay - you get a remote controlled switch -turn on off your smoke unit from your remote, turn on/off lighting, etc. Add a HL elevation or rotation motor setup and control that with your new radio setup. OR connect back up to your servo motor assembly for a 'continous rotation servo" - connect your servo shaft to a 10k pot and you have remote control of your tanks sound volume Cheers |
Author: | kamaz [ Tue Oct 04, 2011 9:47 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: 1/16 RSO-03 |
Phyrephish, to be honest, that is more your department and not mine. I do hate that servo electronics, since they do complicate things a bit more that they should be. And yes, you are right, I`ll store those things away, that was the reason why I left 1cm of cables on each end, so that it could be soldered in right order once they get reused. Note that tracks are there temporary. RSO has some special wheels and suspension, so I`ll be doing that later. Also I have to say that these servos (MG995) do have enough torque to power tanks as weel, and the best thing is that they are slow, so no need for gear ratio reduction. PA040589.JPG PA040592.JPG PA040593.JPG PA040595.JPG PA040596.JPG PA040597.JPG PA040599.JPG |
Author: | kamaz [ Tue Oct 04, 2011 9:57 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: 1/16 RSO-03 |
Well, it is work in progress, so... But, all in all I had to made some slight modifications, and as it usually goes, I got wrong some parts, since there are so many and so confusing pictures of RSO interior. That ˝lump˝ in the middle of cab is engine cover. In real RSO upper plate should be horizontal and more narrower, but as I said before, I got that angle wrong and hence tilted upper plate. Also I had to accomodate battery pack hence widening. But other things are right. PA040601.JPG PA040603.JPG PA040604.JPG Electronics are to be sorted out, but for now this is it. It has A-B-C transmitter, so it won`t jam transmitter from lowloader lowering mechanism. Also, note servos position---real RSO had rear drive, front sprocket wheels are just idlers. PA040606.JPG PA040609.JPG |
Author: | kamaz [ Wed Oct 26, 2011 9:41 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: 1/16 RSO-03 |
So, what is there to be said about soldering with torch?! It is dangerous, but worth it! Now, there are many instruction sites around net, also great amount of films on Youtube, but they all come at the end on same few principles: -soldering torch is used to heat up surrounding metal (in mine case brass) so that standard soldering wire can be used to solder parts together (soldering iron won`t do the jobe since it heats up just a portion of metal while other parts stay cool, since brass absorbs heat quickly, and at the end soldering mass won` t adhere as good as it should making the joint brittle) -use sand paper to make joint surfaces rough, so that soldering mass can adhere to something -use soldering paste (this will hepl soldering mass to adhere, lower heating point, prevent oxidation of joint surfaces) -but before all, make a plan on what to solder in what step and make a sturdy holding mechanism for parts to be soldered, since heat will melt all surrounding soldering mass as you attemp to solder sometnig else there. For example, on mine ˝H˝ frame, as I firstly made those two parallel axles (they have two holders for lower axles), they had allready on them soldered parts, and as I progerssed to soldering connecting axle those holders soldered joints melted so I had to adjust them again. Bare in mind that soldering mass can be remelted 2-3 times before it gets all impure of soot. If this happens you need to clean joint of all soldering mass and make new. All in all it`s not so hard once you get a feel for it. |
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