RC Tanks Australia Forum

hi Kevin,

here you are the second 'prototype':



in this version, the servo is a simple electric engine, also for the elevation, no servo but electric motor, but then a polarity inverter will be needed, and I've no idea of where look for it...

in both solutions, the main problem is the 4 barrels not being aligned correctly, as you also pointed.

the problem with the biowire micro servos could be the speed needed in alternating the fire, in real live it was a fast firing weapon, and I've read that these servos are quit slow.


best regards

_________________
Panzergruppe Tarraco

I'll have a think myself. It certainly will be a challenge. Have you even solved how you will get the leds into the barrels? WHat is the diameter of the 1/16th barrel?

Cheers
KG

_________________

rctanksaustralia.com

hehehe

just yesterday i ordered the flak, so when it arrives i could measure then the space available, right now i do not know...

also, i was looking on ebay for different types and sizes of leds. The smallest standard led i found is 1.8mm width, talking about SMD leds, there are different types:

type 0603 is 1,6x0,8x0,75mm
type 0805 is 2,0x1,25x1,1mm
type E675 is 1,6x0,8x0,75mm

i hope that any of these could fit inside these small barrels, i will be sure when i get my hands on the flak


best regards

_________________
Panzergruppe Tarraco

You could put the led at the base of the gun and use fibre optic cable up the barrel. Even though you might get a led up into the barrel you have to run wires to it plus solder those wires on to it. I can't wait tuil some bright spark make barrels with a pair of conductor in the barrel itself. Wouldn't that be nice instead of having to poke wires down the barrel tube.

You are scaring me out of doing a Wirbelwind, if it were a Kugelbiltz or Ostwind these little guys would be perfect for the recoil

HK3D17L.jpg

Cheers
KG

_________________

rctanksaustralia.com

you are right, Kevin, this would be an easier way...

but, as the barrel has to be moveable -if finally the recoil could be done- I've to look closely in order to find from where the led/fibre has to enter the barrel...


best regards

_________________
Panzergruppe Tarraco

hi Kevin,

after looking to the shipping costs from your shop to Spain I've thinking in alternatives... and stepping back to my initial idea of maintain this project on the low, I've thought in one possible solution to the elevation problem, but i need advice from you the electronically talented guys

Without taking into account the use of recoiling, if possible at all, I would like to know what you think about my idea, if it’s feasible or do you have any other way to do it… so:

- imagine a turret less HL PzIV, with the Wirbelwind one installed and with the flakvierling inside
- imagine that no servos would be used for elevation of the guns or rotating the turret, only engines.
- the turret rotation would be the same as any other HL

The standard HL ‘8 wires’ group of cables going from the RX18 to the upper hull is distributed in this way:

pin 1 (black) - negative turret rotation (3.8V - 4.0V)
pin 2 (red) + positive turret rotation

pin 3 (blue) - negative motor gun fire recoil airsoft (4V)
pin 4 (yellow) - negative motor gun elevation (7.2V)
pin 5 (brown) + positive common to elevation and gun engines

pin 6 (green) + positive common to light and MG shooting
pin 7 (white) - negative light
pin 8 (orange) - negative MG shooting

so then:

- there would be no tank gun or recoil or fire system, then the pin 3 (blue) would be free
- it would be possible to use the pins 6 and 8 for MG shooting to fire the flakvierling LEDs with the K button
- on the remote, stick down controls the tank gun elevation, but on a cyclic way, the engine always runs in the same direction (no polariity reverse)
- on the remote, stick up controls the tank gun firing

Well, have I said any incorrect?

Now, the possible solution to have elevation and depression of the flakvierling , up or down, without the cyclic thing, and is here where I need your thoughts and advice!

Could be possible, to use the ‘liberated’ pin 3 (blue) (remember, no tank gun to be fired) to make the elevation engine to turn in the opposite way?
With some electronic component? A polarity inverter? A relay? An H bridge?...?

If this i just said could be doable, then the guns could be fired with the remote’s K button, the remote’s sticks down and up to control the flak elevation…

What do you think? Do you have any other idea to achieve what I want?

Best regards and thank you very much!

_________________
Panzergruppe Tarraco

HI Jussek

Just a side note - the webstore will calculate prices based on sending items as Parcel post. If I can I will send items as airmail letter. Single boards like the RC2HL & MAKO2 will get through as letter post. Postage for these items is a mere $2.35. I always refund the extra postage if I can send as airmail letter. So don't let the postal estimate put you off

Cheers
Kevin G

_________________

rctanksaustralia.com

good to know! thank you very much for the info, Kevin.

I've been looking for additional info, regarding my previous question, and I've found that maybe it would be better to use transistors than relays, they are already build like a L293B circuit. I think i will buy one of these and did a try in my 'lab'...

some more progress, not so much today:

support and aerial base:





and this is what I've used to reinforce the road wheels insertions to the plastic body:






best regards

_________________
Panzergruppe Tarraco

hello again,

some more progress, in the no electronic field...

made the radiooperator hatch workable, to access the on/off switch and volume poti i will install below
















best regards

_________________
Panzergruppe Tarraco

hi all

step by step...

some more progress so far...

building process of the engine compartment's firewall and gearbox covers:





i will use neodymium magnets to join together the lower and upper hulls. here are the screws on the frontal lower hull, and magnets en the upper part, in this way you can adjust the eight accurately to close the gap completely:





and this is how the complete cover for the gearbox ans magnets looks. The 'castle' you see is where the switch and poti will be located, and is placed just below the radio operator hatch:



now the bad news

the flak has arrived, and I've to say, it is NOT what i wanted. It's static, and to mod it to be RC will be a nightmare. it seems to me that is has been cloned in an amateur fashion, it has a LOT of parts that have to be cutted, filed, chopped, etc... the turret base is almost 1cm in thickness, and i do not know HOW i will work on this! ... also, the guns are completely metallic and solid. I've already ordered brass tubes to replace the current ones, in order to let the fibre optic cable to pass through. The main problem will be drill the gun metal bodys to let the cable to pass...

here you are some pics, i will made some more with macro, so you will see the 'details'...









i think it will be better to cut away all the bottom of the turret and replace it for another buil by myself, i will have to do this with the central body of the flak in order to install inside the elevation engine and leds...

i see hard work ahead...

best regards

_________________
Panzergruppe Tarraco