RC Tanks Australia Forum

Ok, I've had a play with my Tiger and found a few bugs. One poorly formed track link, easily fixed, and later the right side drive sprocket worked itself lose. Again, easily fixed.

Now the questions start!

What I find now is the gearbox appears to be slipping, even on Lino. I haven't opened it up to see, but I'm assuming this will be the clutches on the plastic gearboxes I've read about. I also find it a bit fast, and it does these really fast zero-turns.

I am looking at the Taigen 4:1 all steel gearbox. Any advice on these; are they a good idea, good value (@$45.50), are they difficult to install? Is there a better option?

My Tiger has metal tracks and drive sprockets. Idler and roadwheels are still plastic. Should I look to replace these as well, if so, with what brand?

I'd like to be able to do a controlled crawl over obstacles, at the moment it does it, but it is very touchy. Do I need to change my RC controller to get better proportional control? Even slow turns can be difficult from a standing start - nothing - then a spin!

Cheers,

Michael

It may also be a slipping pinion gear

If you want better speed control the 4:1 gearboxes will help and give more power to turn etc. not certain which Taigen gearboxes you referring to as there is a few available. I prefer the black metal gearboxes as quieter than other types.

I would recommend changing the idle wheels to metal as the plastic ones become loose and wobbly and throw a track. The metal keeps it inline and helps keep the track on. I've both metal and plastic tracks and both work great the metal is more realistic but adds weight which means harder to turn climb etc and shorter battery run time.

Hope that helps

Ian

_________________
HL/Asiatam Metal Tiger 1
HL/Asiatam Metal KV-1 (1941)
WSM T-34
SU100
HE Abrams
HL Leopard 2A6
HL Jagdpanther

Thanks for the replies Zac and Ian.

The gearboxes are these - http://tankarmy.com/heng-long-tank/prod ... cts_id/339

They appear to be black, so perhaps they are those you are referring to Ian. I also see there maybe some modifications needed to make them fit. This shouldn't be a problem for me as I am reasonably well equiped with tools to do this.

I also see these as well - http://tankarmy.com/heng-long-tank/prod ... ucts_id/31

Would I be right thinking these are a drop-in fit, but not 4:1 reduction?

Cheers,

Michael

Hi Michael,
Good to see you you playing with your Tiger
I'm surprised you didn't get metal idlers with the metal upgrade (usually you do)
Also open her up so we can see what gearboxes you have as they should have added metal g/boxes with the metal tracks. The clicking noise is usually plastic boxes, they have a safety slip clutch ( you can glue these up ) or as zak has said could be the sprocket /pinion gear, won't now untill we find out what's inside (and take some pics).

Re: the gearboxes, you will have to get the 3/1 (or 4/1 I think they are all the same)
As the standard ones (are the same as what's in there now)
are too fast, the 3/1 will slow down the tank and you will have better control, Taigen should fit in easily, if not you will have to drill a few new screw holes hardly a challenge lol.

The plastic road wheels are ok, wouldn't worry about changing them (I havn't in my tiger 1)

Re: the control unit, yep a new unit will make controlling the tank easier and slower.
There are a few products on the market, SGS, El Mod, the new unit from RCTA to be released before Xmas (if all goes well with the trials), and the Clark unit as well as others. All range from cheaper version to more expensive versions.
My advice is wait and check out what's available before you buy, I like El Mod but it's at the higher end of the market.

Hope this helps or confuses you more LOl

Cheers
Gra

_________________
Gra's Heavy Tank Regiment
HL Tiger 1 - El Mod, Tiger 1, K T Porsche turret, Panzer III & IV, Stug G & E, Panther D,
Matorro KT, Jagdtiger and Sturmtiger, HL Sherman and T - 34, A7V (WIP)
Panzergruppe South Member

Thanks Gra.

What about the Mato brass gearboxes? Are they worth the extra dollars? About $70 for brass, $40-ish for steel.

Yes, getting more confused Gra, but it is a good sort of confusion - at least there are many options. that's better than not having any.

I'll leave the control stuff until later as you suggest. It suits me too anyway; I know nothing about electronics and it's the mechanical side of things that interests me most.

Michael

Hi Michael,

Yes that first gearbox link is what I was on about. These should fit fine with the ones your take out. Only mod you need to is possible enlarge the fixing hole in the drive wheels due to the larger diameter bolt but that easy enough to do.

Plus when you fit the lower ratio gears you'll have better drive control so like Gra says leave it a bit before jumping into the electronic mine field.

Ian.

_________________
HL/Asiatam Metal Tiger 1
HL/Asiatam Metal KV-1 (1941)
WSM T-34
SU100
HE Abrams
HL Leopard 2A6
HL Jagdpanther

Forgot to mention I had a set of Mato brass gearboxes in a Tiger and wasn't impressed (might of been my misfortune) but burnt both motors out due the gears seizing on the shaft (different cogs different speeds on same shaft!) also the actual final drive shaft is really thin in diameter so bent dead easy.

Ian.

_________________
HL/Asiatam Metal Tiger 1
HL/Asiatam Metal KV-1 (1941)
WSM T-34
SU100
HE Abrams
HL Leopard 2A6
HL Jagdpanther

Thanks Ian, I was leaning the steel box way but it's good to checkout all the options first before buying.

Cheers,

Michael

Two things today.

First the problem. I let the Tiger out for a run this morning and was driving it about on the grass and the patio when it stopped responding to the controller. It was doing this thing when I had the stick forward where it would drive 2 feet and stop, then go again. So it was like a go-2-3, stop-2-3. I thought the battery might have been going flat and didn't worry about it. Then I fired the MG and it wouldn't stop. I couldn't shut down the tank on the controller and it wouldn't respond at all. I turned the tank off, and then back on again and I was away but with the stop-start thing. I fired the main gun which was ok, turret rotation was also stop-start, then fired the MG again. This time the MG fired for about 15-20 seconds then stopped even though I only pressed it once briefly.

I turned it all off and changed the batteries in the controller suspecting they might have been going flat (although if they go flat at this rate I won't be able to afford to run it!). Changed the tanks battery too.

Then I couldn't get it to start at all. The Tank sits there with it's lights flashing but not responding at all to any imput. The light is on on the controller, tank lights flash, but no-go.

I am absolutely ignorant of radio control. What is it I have going on here? Could I have burned out the circuitboard driving it on the grass? I wondered about the crystals...a fault there?

The second thing is that I ordered the all-steel 4:1 gearboxes and a pair of metal idlers. The supplier was good enough to notify me that one box was tighter than the other. He offered a discount for the defect, and I proceeded with the order as they won't get anymore in until Jan/Feb next year. So, I'm chancing my arm that I'll be able to free the box up. I can still return them if they're no good at all, but I'm taking a punt on it being an easy fix. (famous last words!)

Cheers,

Michael