RC Tanks Australia Forum

Hi,

I'm in the middle in the construction of three tigers.

The tubs I make of bonded aluminum with my own suspension and chain tensioner. The drive consists of two brushless motors, each with 450W maximum power to the inertia I use to get so very true original driving performance. The gear with a functional outdoor gear are adapted to the performance and also designed by me.

Because all three tanks in various stages of construction now I show my building report from this state, and hold him so on.




Now the first of the three tubs comes to driving.

But before that, the drive must be completed.

The countershaft are ready ready for assembly.



This I fill completely before screwing the lid with Grafithfett.



And then came the tedious but adjusting the sprockets. In the following two tigers then it goes much faster.
Here you can well recognize the space, how close they run past the right arm especially.



And here now the chain track.



And mounted with chain.



And of course I've also done a test drive in the garden.





The suspension is still too high and is not even broken in and tuned, but the trip went without failures and lost parts

Now that the drive is running the first tiger I need a little bit of variety.
So I started to disassemble the tower this Tigers and the mechanics of the chariot exchange cannon.



Since the elevation and the recoil will later be dealt with first servos I need a mounting platform for this. To use the weight of the servos as compensation for the gun I mount both on a aluminum bracket to attach to the gun I saw.



This aluminum angle I screw with the gun cradle. This keeps bombproof.





I mount the servos then next time

And here it goes a little further, one thing I have going on here but back then it really about ....

Nevertheless, I have done with the tower on.

First, the servos tested and placed in the center position. I'm using since only servos with metal gears. Since then, I no longer broke.



On the aluminum bracket I have glued a 2mm poly-edition.



The connecting rod between the gun barrel and the servo do I make a 1.5 mm aluminum rest.



And so I can stick the servo on the connecting rod bearing and mount.



So like I'm doing it with the servo for pipe Elivation.



Now you just need the button for the flash shot, but another time

And here it goes again after further between times I had to do something else.

The switch, which is the cause of the excess flash I have the arm still extended by I glued a thin strip of brass.



And so the button is released and remains pressed in the final position of the servo. Only then the flash fires only once.





And so it now looks in the tower now.



Thus wer was now first again screwed and set aside.
Now I do first and the second well done.

The first step was again the gear align exactly in the trough and screw with the housings of the countershaft.



And when I had perfect everything .... ... I could build it all back and disassemble the transmission. In an engine is a very small metal chip had smuggled and since I risked no damage to the winding by I ignore him ......
So the whole thing up again.

When everything was back where I was able to install the PTO to the back gears and always sure it runs smoothly.





And next time it goes with the back gears on again....

Today I have to solder the large gears with the hard drive axles first.

For this I draw to the first position of the gears on the axles and imagine a Caliper firmly so that I can later adjust the exact position during soldering.



Between these two lines I sharpen the axes in such a way that the grooves run along the axis and thus also results in a set of teeth to the rotation direction. That's what I do with my favorite tool, a small belt sander.





So that the brazing area also connects the gears to the axles I file into the bore of multiple channels into which the solder can be spread by capillary action with a file.



Then brush the parts at the contact points with flux, solder and stuck together.





After quenching in water I edit the workpieces to the lathe and plasters them. The teeth I work with a stainless steel brush with the buildup I remove the coverings and fluxes.





The last step is again a small heat treatment, notably, the axes are not sensitive to shock. So I give the parts again for one hour at 230 ° C in the oven.





The axes are then ready for installation. But before I fit more to the drive wheels.
But still not right with the chain.



With late drive to set the track is easiest. One only has an aluminum bar stuck in the middle of the rollers.

Since the drive wheels must still 3.8 mm closer to the tub I edit it again on my big lathe.





And it must look like then.





Tomorrow I'm doing the countershaft to then.

And on it goes.

Today was the assembly of the countershaft to the series.

For this purpose, I first filled the housing with graphite grease, the drive axle is pushed to the gear, which then leveled supernatant fat to the middle and cleaned the edge.







The next step was to cut the 13 pieces M1, 2 screws with whom I have the lid screwed. Of course, the sealant was not to forget.





After the countershaft is now closed I had to adjust the drive. Here's a little editing using a file or belt sander was necessary.





So then the drive has less than 1mm clearance to the countershaft.



The assembly of the chains was then just a formality.



After the drive is now so far advanced I had to for a test drive or the controller soldering and programming.



And then came the big eye look again. If everything goes the way I imagine it, or I have to optimize something, or even change.

Once I got next to some other electronics for testing yesterday the missing motors and regulators for the third Tiger since it goes on.

First was again the steel rings of the weights of the series.



Once these are the engines were turned to rebuilding. Which must be disassembled and the axis are pressed onto the other side of the rotor.



The left rotor still has the factory settings, right now the drive shaft exits the motor on the right side.



Such were then the steel rings on the rotors to gluing and pressing. In addition I have also configured the same and solder the regulator.

Since I was busy the last few days to clean up at me again and work through a few things left lying around, it is now also back on.

Since I from the third Tiger to many small parts I have lying around ready begun at this time also to build the transmission.

As always, the first installation and the alignment of the first motor. Here you have to continue as more and error from here to the end the most accurate work.



And the second stage assembly.



And of course the second page.



So I can now use the gear back sucking in the tub.



And set aside again ............ Now I'm out the other two Tigers finished.

It does not help ...... I need space ....

I have my workshop tidy and sort a bit , but somehow I slowly running out of space .

So a tiger after another has just now be done, and I always do but still benögtigte parts when it makes sense in the same package , as now, the batteries for the first two tigers.

Since I have sent three batteries , each with 6 cells get to make it two matched 8-cell packs. 8 cells because it has become easy to be an ideal voltage for my drive and you can then run a 4 ohm speaker has more power.



The batteries I will build so that each 4 cells can be located at each side of the bath . I also get the same perfect weight distribution in the tank.

So I cut apart the battery on shrink and wrinkle hose it off strong. The Lötfahenen I tear with a pair of pliers , since I do not need them and loop poles at all well .



Then I melt the solder I sharpened points carefully with a soldering iron must have at least 80W .



To every battery I have to get two packs of four now dull solder for the second half of the battery jeweis two individual cells together. To ensure it works I do this on an aluminum rail . One side of the battery pack I fix with a clamp and push the loose cell against a hammer -shaped tip . Thus, the solder is melted both poles simultaneously and then when you pull out the soldering iron and the loose cell quickly press against the other one has a perfect blunt soldering.



One must not confuse the poles , otherwise the battery burns down . Then you must also be careful when you solder the cable to the pending Pole and connects the two small packs at a large .



To cover the open pole I use an old blister that I crop and then adjusting accordingly with heat. Then heat shrink it and the battery is ready . Now I have to assemble it only with the management device .





It continues with the speaker that I fit in the rear.
Base and lid I cut cards the same for all three tigers from plastic .



Before I put the amount determined is of course to be careful how high I can build at all . The tower motor is indeed in the way, but in the end it fits.



Just as I build the middle part of the tank battery and electronics .



All inserts I build so that they are easily plugged into the tub without further fastening and also an adjustment to the suspension, or other maintenance is very easy.

Sometimes, it is different and as you think. I'm sick of the never to be in my local, but must always stand in ....

But still gehts with the Tigers a little further.

The cabinet is glued and mounted speakers with some insulating material.



The wiring with all connectors is already soldered. A 30A fuse is also installed. At slightly more weight it needs 40A already, but only because of the brake.







This all looks still wild and disorderly, but that will come. Next, I started to connect and program the transmitter of its owner.



He can drive already and the sound module I program tonight. I want him to have done modeling in military technology museum