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| 3:1 v 4:1 realism http://www.rctanksaustralia.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=899 |
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| Author: | Spudkopf [ Tue Sep 09, 2014 12:31 pm ] |
| Post subject: | 3:1 v 4:1 realism |
A quick question Sorry I've been AWOL (again), but I just got myself the HL Leopard 2A6 and I want to do some metal upgrades that include metal / rubber tracks, and so will need to get a steel gear box as well, however I cant decide which gear ratio would be more scale accurate for this tank as in 3:1 or the 4:1? Any advice / opinions?? Thanks |
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| Author: | Tankbear [ Wed Sep 10, 2014 6:55 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: 3:1 v 4:1 realism |
I opted for keeping the standard ratio gearbox but upgraded to the black metal versions. I find the stock motors are rubbish so always upgrade to speed 400 or in my Leo case speed 480. I find this combination works great on my Leo with metal upgrades and the metal/rubber tracks. This gearbox calculator has been around on the internet for a few years now Lets your play with variables so you can obtain a more accurate scale speed. Ian. |
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| Author: | Phyrephish [ Wed Sep 10, 2014 7:14 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: 3:1 v 4:1 realism |
AWOL?? Thought you were dead! What Ian said plus don't forget a lot can depend on your controlling unit, battery, tank weight and resistance of the drive chain. If gearbox 2 slow - lighten tank, minimise drive chain resistance, use higher voltage. Put a 3 cell LiPo into a Heng Long Tiger and it can become a 'drift tank' RX18 won't last long but the tank can jump off ramps. If you plan to stick with the RX18 then ????? You are a lot more limited. I wouldn't use a 3 cell Lipo but I would use a new high voltage 2 cell if I needed a little extra speed. Plus don't forget torque cheers kg |
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| Author: | Gra [ Wed Sep 10, 2014 11:43 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: 3:1 v 4:1 realism |
Hi Spudkopf Welcome back from the cold, Most HL Leo owners seem to keep the standard ratio as the low ratios are to slow, get the steel version and upgrade the motors if you are going to add metal tracks as they are a lot longer than most tanks and will add a lot more weight. And we need pics  Now when are going to get back to the Panzer III mod  Cheers Gra 
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| Author: | Spudkopf [ Wed Sep 10, 2014 1:25 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: 3:1 v 4:1 realism |
G'day all Thanks for all the replies, I was already personally leaning towards keeping a 3:1 for the Leopard and your advice has helped to seal that deal. Sadly all my projects are heavily dependent on both funds and time, and thus they usually all become long term as a consequence, but on the up side it does give KG time to come up with all these great Tech' solutions which by the way I'll need to touch base on. I'll come back here after work and write a proper response as to what on the workbench, but as as far as the StuG goes the following is now on its way from Poland, which will hopefully help kick things back on track. |
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| Author: | Phyrephish [ Wed Sep 10, 2014 7:23 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: 3:1 v 4:1 realism |
What I want is all that artwork turned into decals - that's what I want |
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| Author: | Spudkopf [ Thu Sep 11, 2014 8:30 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: 3:1 v 4:1 realism |
| Author: | Spudkopf [ Thu Sep 11, 2014 10:41 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: 3:1 v 4:1 realism |
| Author: | Phyrephish [ Thu Sep 11, 2014 10:58 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: 3:1 v 4:1 realism |
Chatmelon Where do I start??? First up make your own 360 wiring harnesses as those ones may not have enough wires. Search eBay for 'slip ring' and get one with enough wires. The reason you have turret rotation problems is because there is NO proportional control with the RX18. It is either ON/OFF at full speed. The motors and design are OK it is the electrics that are the problem (QUE - friendly reminder of Pfish's MANTRA - upgrade electrics BEFORE anything else) When you have the proper hobby 2.4 ghz system you can use a GEKO to control the turret this will give you precise control with the stock mechanics. You must have seen all of the GEKO vids on the RCTA youtube channel. PLUS with GEKO you can add a GA250 gyro for turret lock/stabilization - again videos here on forum and youtube. Now because it is just you , Graham & Ian monitoring this post I'll sneak you guys a head up. Most if not all of my delay in producing a complete system has been sound. I did not want a system that was not capable of producing polyphonic (more than one sound at a time) sound at anything less than CD quality. Finally a couple of excellent sound options have become available and I have been able to move forward with Taipan 2014. But this new sound option is fan-freakin-tastic. How does 12-14 sounds at once at CD quality with micro SD card for file storage sound grab you???? Now the good part - sub $50 (sound card only) In production in China RIGHT NOW is the Taipan 2014 proto board: taipan2014.jpg The Basics: Sound system - a shield board that fits on top of Taipan 2014 - details as above (Separate board) Drive system - 2 x 30Amp STI motor controllers Turret and Gun - own dedicated microprocessor and motor control IR Battle - MAKO2 (allowing for servo recoil and battle stats) Rear and head lights Dual Machine guns (gone overboard here giving the mgs their OWN microprocessor for control - this will allow for imitating any mg type or flak cannons in the future) As stated this is a proto board 10 get produced and I only need 2 or 3 Just something to bear in mind. Cheers KG |
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| Author: | Spudkopf [ Thu Sep 11, 2014 12:02 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: 3:1 v 4:1 realism |
I'll need to talk to in more detail about the electronics side of things, as I agree totally that this is the key to making my tanks meet my expectations (you have designed sou much goodness that I hardly know where to start), until I can get my head around the whole RC basics and it will remain my weakest discipline and stop my going to the next level. However at the same time I want to try and solve the basic mechanical side of things, as I see it in its the fundamental mechanical issue with the slip ring of the 360° kit is it’s lack total lack of any form of anchoring. So I’ve got hold of some scrap soft aluminium from work that I am going to try and prototype into a cradle to suspend from underneath the gear ring of the turret, which hopefully will give the slip-ring a fixed and centred rotation point. I also intended to try anchor the other end to the chassis to further promote better rotation. Once I get the rough dimensions sorted I can them make a more refined cradle, I may even go as far as then design a 3D model in CAD, in the hope that I may get access to 3D printer in the future. |
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