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 Post subject: Disabling or Modifying the Heng Long Track Recoil Function
 Post Posted: Sun May 15, 2011 9:16 am 
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King Tiger Commander
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Disabling or Modifying the Heng Long Track Recoil Function

The track recoil action of the RX-18 board is to most people down right annoying. The violent jerking back and forwards of the tank on its track after firing of the main gun is not realistic nor do I suspect good for the gearboxes. There are some commercially available devices that will stop this recoil action. These devices basically involve a relay cutting power to the motors during the period that the recoil occurs. In this section of the upgrade process I will run through how to make an Anti Track Recoil Circuit (ATRC) along with some minor modifications to the RX-18 board to allow this circuit to work.

PART 1. Getting the RX-18 ready

First things first. This section deals with modifying your RX-18 board. These modifications are relatively simple and if done correctly won’t harm your board. However, you could (like I have) stuff up. So no responsibility blah blah you know the deal….

Step 1. Solder the trigger/input wire to the board.
Remove the actual circuit board from its plastic case. Flip it over as all of the soldering will be done on the underside.

The ATRC works by a relay cutting power to the motors when the main gun is fired. The motors are switched to OFF when current flows through the relay coil. A FET is used to control the flow of current through the relay. Think of the FET acting as a gate. When the gate is closed – no current through relay – power to motors. When the gate is open – current through relay – power cut to motors. Whether the gate is open or closed depends on the signal received at the gate pin of the FET. This signal we get from the RX-18 board so there needs to be a wire from the board to the ATRC. Using the picture below as a guide attach a short piece of wire (say 10 cm) to Pin 3 as shown below

Image

Step 2. Attach additional power supply wires
The ATRC needs power straight from the battery to work. Further, if you wish to add cooling fans to the board these will need a power supply as well. The easiest way to get this power is to simply tap off the main input for the RX-18 board. Thus connect a red ‘+’ wire and a black ‘-‘ wire to the underside of the RX-18s power in connector as shown below. Again about 10 cm of wire should be enough.

Image

Step 3. Cut an exit hole for the wires
An exit hole for these wires will need to be cut in the bottom half of the RX-18 plastic case. The hole needs to be about the size of the dashed outline.

Image

Step 4. OPTIONAL Add the ‘Full Function Firing Diode”
If you are going well at this point and would like to try a slightly more challenging bit of soldering you may wish to add the ‘Full Function Firing’ diode at this point. The original guide for installing this diode is at the RCCommand website:

http://www.rccommand.com/guides/RX18FireMod.php

The diode is hard to see in the picture below as I have used a small 1N4148 diode enclosed its entire length in shrink wrap. Only 1 or 2 mm of wire protrudes out of the ends to allow soldering the board.

IMPORTANT: Note the orientation of the diode. The band on the diode is towards Pin 4 of the 8-Pin connector.

Image

For those familiar with the circuits I have shown earlier in this guide this diode serves the same function as the diode in the centre of the picture below. Hence, if you install this diode here then you need not install it connecting the white wire pad of the turret 8-Pin Connector to the gun motor return. Conversely, if you don’t wish to connect the diode on the back of your RX-18 board connecting it up in the turret as shown below will serve EXACTLY the same function. The choice is yours.

Image

Step 5. Add 3 Pin Connector
Terminate the wires in a 3 pin connector to allow easy connection to the ATRC and hot glue the connector to the side of the RX-18 case

Image

Snap the top half of the protective case back in place and……

Image

your Rx-18 board is now ready for the ATRC and or cooling fans.

Next up PART 2 – Assembling the ATRC

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 Post subject: Re: Disabling or Modifying the Heng Long Track Recoil Functi
 Post Posted: Sun May 15, 2011 1:37 pm 
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King Tiger Commander
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PART 2. Assembling The ATRC

First off if soldering circuits together really isn’t your thing and you really want to rid yourself of the track recoil then I’d suggest buying a commercially available module. Alternatively, the ATRC can be purchased from RC Tanks Australia Online Shop http://rctanksaustralia.com/shop/. Please allow a 5 day build time between ordering and dispatch.

The preparation of the RX-18 as described above will need to be completed for these modules to work so there is no skipping Part 1.

The Circuit

Image

Parts List
To assemble the basic ATRC you will need:

1 x 5 volt DPDT relay
1 x FET BS170 OR 2N 7000
1 x 1uF Electrolytic Capacitor
1 x 100 ohm Resistor
1 x 270K Resistor
2 x 1N4148 Diodes
2 x 2 Pin Screw Terminals
1 x Pre-Printed PCB (as used for prototypes/experiments…)

With the exception of the relay you can get all of these components locally from Jaycar. The relay is available from RS Components.

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/sear ... 3&x=23&y=9

Step 1. Cut Down the PCB
To make a nice small circuit cut down your PCB to a size of at least 12 x 9 holes. If you think you could make a mistake start with a slightly larger board like I have done here. If all goes right it can be trimmed down at the end.

Image

Step 2. Solder the Relay & Screw Terminals in Place.
Place and solder the relay and screw terminals at one end of the board as shown below.

Image

The next few steps are a little tricky and depend on your particular PCB. Make sure that all of the screw terminals (white circles) & relay terminals (red circles) are isolated. This will involve using a sharp hobby knife to cut away and of the intervening copper traces. Also clear any traces from between the two contacts of the relay coil

Image

Step 3 Connect the Screw and Relay Terminals
Using the pictures below as a guide connect the relay and screw terminals as shown. Make the connections with short pieces of insulated wire.

Image

Note the top terminals of the relay are isolated (nothing connects to them). Next up solder a diode across the relay coil terminals (Those at the bottom). The ‘+’ supply will contact the left terminal so the band on the diode will be towards this terminal.

Image

Step 3. Solder the Remaining Components in Place
You will need to refer to the circuit diagram to help you with this step. Since everyone’s boards will be different you will need you own judgment on how best to arrange the remaining components. Further the pinout arrangement of the BS170 and 2N 7000 FETs are opposite. The BS170 is D G S flat side up, left to right. The 2N7000 is S G D flat side up, left to right. The FET I have used below is a 2N 7000. Also shown below is the connection for the green signal wire.

Image

All that is left is to connect the power supply leads and trim the board. The picture below show the basic routes of the circuit, all of the leads attached and the board trimmed.

Image

Same again only in diagrammatic form.

Image

Step 4. Insulate & Terminate
It would probably be best to insulate the ATRC by either wrapping in insulation tape (cheap) or covering with shrink wrap (expensive). The three outgoing wires need to be terminated in a corresponding 3 Pin plug to that on your RX-18 board. (Note: The extra pair of red & black wires shown on the circuit below are for one of the modifications of this circuit that I’ll talk about later.)

Image

Connection of the ATRC to the tank motors involves cutting both red wires that go from the RX-18 to the motors. The cut ends of the red wires are connected to the ATRC as shown below.

Image

Step 5. TEST
Now it's time to test that all your hard soldering work has paid off. Connect your ATRC to your modified RX-18 and then connect up all the wires inside your tank to the RX board. Snip the red wires going to the motors and connect them to the ATRC as shown above. Turn everything on, start up your tank and when it has fully started up press the 'K' button. If all goes according to plan the gun will fire, there will be the cannon sound and flash (if you've got one) but the tank will remain still.

NEXT UP ... Modifications to the ATRC.
The more I look at this circuit the more possibilities open up. Firstly, with the addition of a single resistor we can use this circuit to trigger the LED flash circuit described earlier. Secondly, we need not have the tank do nothing when the gun is fired. The circuit above is probably best for tanks with rotating turrets but for the Stugs, Jadgpanzers, Brummbars, Sturmtigers... where the gun is ALWAYS forwards we can possibly alter the recoil action to be more realistic. I am currently working on this idea so the next post could be a while off. I assume that when a tank stops there will be a small amount of slack in the tracks so that when the gun fires the tank is infact moved backwards to the extent of this 'slack'. Combined with the tank's suspension there would be a slight back and forwards movement of the tank chassis when the gun fires. This may not be true but certainly in any WWII footage of tanks firing that I have seen there is movement of the chassis when the gun is fired. The emphasis here is 'SLIGHT' the current H/L action is far too wild. My first idea is to only allow a very small amount of backwards movement to the motors only. This should simulate the tank rocking back only on what slack there is in the tracks. I am hoping that this will result in a down and back action on the suspension which will then every so slightly produce the appearance to the tank rocking forwards. We shall see......

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 Post subject: Re: Disabling or Modifying the Heng Long Track Recoil Functi
 Post Posted: Sun Jan 01, 2012 10:57 am 
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King Tiger Commander
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Joined: Sun May 15, 2011 7:13 pm
Posts: 301
Location: Bungendore Australia
Hi Phyrephish

Just wondering how the slight recoil movement mod when the gun is fired is going

FYI fellow HL tankers
I have one of these ARTC units for my HL KT and works great takin all that HL recoil tank jerk away

Great stuff

Cheers
Gra :)

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HL Tiger 1 - El Mod, Tiger 1, K T Porsche turret, Panzer III & IV, Stug G & E, Panther D,
Matorro KT - El Mod, Matorro Jagdtiger, HL Sherman and T - 34
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http://www.panzergruppesouth.com/


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 Post subject: Re: Disabling or Modifying the Heng Long Track Recoil Functi
 Post Posted: Sun Jan 01, 2012 2:57 pm 
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King Tiger Commander
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Joined: Tue May 10, 2011 1:17 pm
Posts: 575
Hi Gra

I'm sure that you have seen my 'Got Brains' post. Basically with more hobbyist starting to use micro controllers they have become simple enough for me to understand.

Really it is now like having a little computer on the board. What you can have it do is limited by your knowledge and imagination.

The best thing is that once you hav the board working all the functions are added on by the program that runs on the chip. Just like your upgraded 9X. If you want the chip to do something else you simply pop it out and re-program it.

The chip has inputs for sensors as well as the outputs so it would be dead set simple to have a sensor tell the chip which way the turret was rotated so that if it was forward the tanks rocks back just a bit. If the sensor says the turret is backwards the tank will jerk forwards.

I'm really excited about getting into this as the chip themselves cost (r u sitting down) $3.

Of course I'm going to ask you to trial a prototype - that is if you have any Heng Longs left. I actually had to scrounge around to find a RX-18 board the other day.

Cheers
Kev

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 Post subject: Re: Disabling or Modifying the Heng Long Track Recoil Functi
 Post Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2012 3:29 am 
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Kübelwagen Driver
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Joined: Sat Jun 09, 2012 3:23 am
Posts: 6
Hi fella.

Could you say whether this little rascal will work on the Rx13 board please?

Cheers, Mark


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 Post subject: Re: Disabling or Modifying the Heng Long Track Recoil Functi
 Post Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2012 7:05 pm 
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Kübelwagen Driver
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Posts: 6
I don't know if you've ever seen this Kevin:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_81023 ... tm#8108185

if you go around halfway down the page,there is a circuit diagram to kill the
track recoil on an Rx13/14 using two 6v 2xUM relays(6v SPST ?)taking power
from the airsoft signal(airsoft gun motor V+/V- ?),or at least that's how I read
it .

Cheers,Mark


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 Post subject: Re: Disabling or Modifying the Heng Long Track Recoil Functi
 Post Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2012 8:15 pm 
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King Tiger Commander
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Joined: Tue May 10, 2011 1:17 pm
Posts: 575
Hey Mark

The problem with that concept is that the motors are off for the time you have the left stick up. It will work ok for airsoft but for IR where only a short blip up on the stick is required it won't without a timer of sorts. Plus it can't remove the hit shudders or death spasm that you get with IR nor can it provide JABB.

Cheers
Kevin G

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 Post subject: Re: Disabling or Modifying the Heng Long Track Recoil Functi
 Post Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 12:25 am 
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Kübelwagen Driver
Kübelwagen Driver
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Joined: Sat Jun 09, 2012 3:23 am
Posts: 6
Hi Kevin.

That'd be ok for me because I don't run any kind of IR or combat with it.

It has HL recoil,the board is modified for gun flash and the Tx modified so that
I get gun flash,gun fire and recoil all from one blip of the stick(up right on mine).

I don't think any armor of that vintage actually did fire the main gun on the
move,the sights and barrels weren't compensated like a modern tank is.

So,do you think that'd work just wired in like that?

Cheers,Mark


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 Post subject: Re: Disabling or Modifying the Heng Long Track Recoil Functi
 Post Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2012 4:40 am 
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Kettenrad Driver
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Joined: Wed Aug 08, 2012 4:24 am
Posts: 1
Phyrephish wrote:
PART 2. Assembling The ATRC

First off if soldering circuits together really isn’t your thing and you really want to rid yourself of the track recoil then I’d suggest buying a commercially available module. Alternatively, the ATRC can be purchased from RC Tanks Australia Online Shop http://rctanksaustralia.com/shop/. Please allow a 5 day build time between ordering and dispatch.

The preparation of the RX-18 as described above will need to be completed for these modules to work so there is no skipping Part 1.

The Circuit

Image

Parts List
To assemble the basic ATRC you will need:

1 x 5 volt DPDT relay
1 x FET BS170 OR 2N 7000
1 x 1uF Electrolytic Capacitor
1 x 100 ohm Resistor
1 x 270K Resistor
2 x 1N4148 Diodes
2 x 2 Pin Screw Terminals
1 x Pre-Printed PCB (as used for prototypes/experiments…)

With the exception of the relay you can get all of these components locally from Jaycar. The relay is available from RS Components.

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/sear ... 3&x=23&y=9

Step 1. Cut Down the PCB
To make a nice small circuit cut down your PCB to a size of at least 12 x 9 holes. If you think you could make a mistake start with a slightly larger board like I have done here. If all goes right it can be trimmed down at the end.

Image

Step 2. Solder the Relay & Screw Terminals in Place.
Place and solder the relay and screw terminals at one end of the board as shown below.

Image

The next few steps are a little tricky and depend on your particular PCB. Make sure that all of the screw terminals (white circles) & relay terminals (red circles) are isolated. This will involve using a sharp hobby knife to cut away and of the intervening copper traces. Also clear any traces from between the two contacts of the relay coil

Image

Step 3 Connect the Screw and Relay Terminals
Using the pictures below as a guide connect the relay and screw terminals as shown. Make the connections with short pieces of insulated wire.

Image

Note the top terminals of the relay are isolated (nothing connects to them). Next up solder a diode across the relay coil terminals (Those at the bottom). The ‘+’ supply will contact the left terminal so the band on the diode will be towards this terminal.

Image

Step 3. Solder the Remaining Components in Place
You will need to refer to the circuit diagram to help you with this step. Since everyone’s boards will be different you will need you own judgment on how best to arrange the remaining components. Further the pinout arrangement of the BS170 and 2N 7000 FETs are opposite. The BS170 is D G S flat side up, left to right. The 2N7000 is S G D flat side up, left to right. The FET I have used below is a 2N 7000. Also shown below is the connection for the green signal wire.

Image

All that is left is to connect the power supply leads and trim the board. The picture below show the basic routes of the circuit, all of the leads attached and the board trimmed.

Image

Same again only in diagrammatic form.

Image

Step 4. Insulate & Terminate
It would probably be best to insulate the ATRC by either wrapping in insulation tape (cheap) or covering with shrink wrap (expensive). The three outgoing wires need to be terminated in a corresponding 3 Pin plug to that on your RX-18 board. (Note: The extra pair of red & black wires shown on the circuit below are for one of the modifications of this circuit that I’ll talk about later.)

Image

Connection of the ATRC to the tank motors involves cutting both red wires that go from the RX-18 to the motors. The cut ends of the red wires are connected to the ATRC as shown below.

Image

Step 5. TEST
Now it's time to test that all your hard soldering work has paid off. Connect your ATRC to your modified RX-18 and then connect up all the wires inside your tank to the RX board. Snip the red wires going to the motors and connect them to the ATRC as shown above. Turn everything on, start up your tank and when it has fully started up press the 'K' button. If all goes according to plan the gun will fire, there will be the cannon sound and flash (if you've got one) but the tank will remain still.

NEXT UP ... Modifications to the ATRC.
The more I look at this circuit the more possibilities open up. Firstly, with the addition of a single resistor we can use this circuit to trigger the LED flash circuit described earlier. Secondly, we need not have the tank do nothing when the gun is fired. The circuit above is probably best for tanks with rotating turrets but for the Stugs, Jadgpanzers, Brummbars, Sturmtigers... where the gun is ALWAYS forwards we can possibly alter the recoil action to be more realistic. I am currently working on this idea so the next post could be a while off. I assume that when a tank stops there will be a small amount of slack in the tracks so that when the gun fires the tank is infact moved backwards to the extent of this 'slack'. Combined with the tank's suspension there would be a slight back and forwards movement of the tank chassis when the gun fires. This may not be true but certainly in any WWII footage of tanks firing that I have seen there is movement of the chassis when the gun is fired. The emphasis here is 'SLIGHT' the current H/L action is far too wild. My first idea is to only allow a very small amount of backwards movement to the motors only. This should simulate the tank rocking back only on what slack there is in the tracks. I am hoping that this will result in a down and back action on the suspension which will then every so slightly produce the appearance to the tank rocking forwards. We shall see......

Hi,
I'm new to this site, and was wondering if it is possible to use an axicom v23079-A1001-B301 for this circuit it is a P2 relay, the reason I'm asking is that I happen to have a couple of these. If you can use the P2 what alterations to the circuit would have to be made to accommadate its use.
Thanks
Glyn.


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