RC Tanks Australia Forum

By the way, I'm just going to mill aluminum, a master and this time in a slightly larger scale of 1/6

If I succeed here is a joint report produced construction, first for a drive bassis which should surpass the previous ways the behavior of the suspension and the drive clearly and can then later be built in many variants.

But first I need the one I cut from a block of aluminum alloy shaft corresponding to the band saw.



Outside it is getting so 66.66 x 28.81 x 24.41 mm, but at a cutting of about 85% if I succeed.





Next, I position the component using an edge finder to two holes to really precisely set.



After I hit the right coordinates, and have a little pre-drilled so that the gun drill obtained its leadership, I drill two 3mm holes absolutely parralelle the 66 mm deep through the block. The canon is to drill absolutely necessary as a normal drill at this depth estimated at 2 mm above this level.







I then milled the top of the first level and then do a round with 6mm radius.



With a 6mm router will talk to one side of the segments milled.





I work as the bottom, but leave in the middle of the guide bar are blank.





As far as times to the present.

It goes on ....

Today I drilled and milled only the notches on the lateral fins, the difficulty was that these are arranged inclined to the member.

after I had determined that of Issues on the drawing I could hit the 4 holes with the coordinate table and drill the ends of which a 2.9 mm hole.





After I determined the exact location and extent of the cutouts with the holes I could clamp the blank corresponding to a straight line between the holes and carefully milled out with a 2mm diamond cutter.



After I have the whole then even prepared the rough with a file, it now looks like this. The real finishing takes place only when all milling operations are completed, but it will take some time. That was what you see here today again 2.5 hours work.

And it goes back a little bit further.

To be able to mill out and file the openings in the chain link clean I drill the corners as a boundary with a 1.5 mm drill. The positions of the holes do I find out my CAD drawing again, and then they go on to coordinate table.
But first I must find the zero point of two axes with an edge finder.



So I can now drill the first two lateral openings of the bottom of the chain link.



For drilling the middle breakthrough I turn around the limb, there is in this way in the guide bar and the breakthrough is right below this.



To see all the holes now out of the top.



Since I still have a little time I milled the first breakthrough times already grossly out with the diamond cutter. The work I'm doing fine then later with a file.



So you also get a little insight about how expensive something is ...... today I have used for about 2.5 hours.

Today it was again about 2.5 hours which have brought me a little further.

First I milled the second breakthrough coarse.



The next step was the finer milling of breakthroughs in the series, which the first part is the actual contours. And I've missed me but at a level which is not bad anyway, I still have to trim with wood filler in some places, so you can not mill and file the chain link.





The guide bar must of course also be edited and so gets its slopes.



Since this is also broken through relatively complicated and I can not mill it directly I drill 3 holes in first.



Then I fräses into a breakthrough from the top to the guide bar.



The gross irregularities I file ever from the guide bar. The work I'm doing fine only if all milling operations are completed so far.

And again, it goes a little further on.

Yesterday and today I have the milled rhombus-shaped recesses. For this I must span the link several times, since the remaining webs do not run in a straight line to the component. Centered is the only straight and was quickly processed accordingly. For everyone else, I've studied again so about 2.5 hours.









Now that I have everything edited in link with the router, I can now mill off the pages appropriately.



And so the chain link looks currently. Next to it is to compare a scale 1/16.



So you can slowly start working with the fine belt sander, file, triangular scraper and emery cloth.

Now were the last small milling of the series .





The works on the chain link to be fine now , piece by piece .

The outer curves I could still do with a belt sander .





The works are always fine now . Now I keep working to get the inner curves with different files.



And so the chain link then again after about 2 hours seems to work.











But there is still much work into the chain link and I'm still stuck in the rough work , although slowly so it looks like I imagine it .

Now I had almost forgotten to cut a small groove on both sides of the web , but that was quickly rescheduled .





But then start working fine .

First I degreased the chain link clean . The cooling lubricant so leave a fine film of oil on the surfaces.
Then all defects with 2k auto Feinspachtel coated .



Once the putty was hard I started to edit them with a rubber polishing wheel on the larger areas very carefully at low speed. As far as the for today.





Tomorrow I have worried me thin polishing points with which I can then edit the difficult areas .

Basically, I 'll edit the link largely smooth. I was able to with one of my regulars at the local entertain the Panzer IV was Komandant . The chains were delivered then provided mainly black with some kind of protective coating and were among the very fine cast by pretty smoothly . Moreover, his statement was that the chain looked after 2km in soft ground anyway as polished .

And it goes on with the fine work .
Now this I am also taking a big magnifier for help.



I've still polishing pins and worried with this , I can now edit the last twisty corner carefully .







After the first cleaning was primed to better recognize where I need to reproduce .







A few small points there is I do not like . This I have to split again .



How can I get a little more careful with the polishing donate rework .



And priming again . Now, the link looks like this as I imagine it . I realize this is not all surfaces perfectly designed , but light waves and depressions left as well as a coarser surface in the recess of the guide web .

Now the link should now be ready for molding, but I've probably made ​​it a bit early to release gas into the furnace. There is again a small tear came I still have to fix, but this is no great action.



The casting I will first try without centrifugal casting. By the size of the limb, it might work. If it does not work then I can make the form required for centrifugal casting another master.

My mold is just barely big enough ....

And on it goes with the insanity as someone has so beautifully expressed , but also with method.

First, the mold lining with baking paper . Thus, the silicone stays nice and separated from the mold .



I do not use silicone 2 K , but sheet goods which is then cured with heat .. This is to be processed as clay and later gets their properties .



And so do I embed the link in the form .





It is then simply baked in a small oven . However, you should do it because of the sweet smell preferably outdoors.



And so you can now see and edit the Vulcanized form .







However, I 've seen here that the chain I can not pour with this type form . I'll need through the rather complicated chain link at least a three-part form, and it is too cumbersome as the number of individual members to pour clean, but one learns from it.

That's why I still cast a first attempt , although there was no usable member.





The necessary ventilation channels I no longer appropriate . In addition one must try several fonts, but I can see how the elements fit together later and I 'm satisfied.



So used any more time on this method and for my centrifugal casting machine built ready because I can make this in a cast with a minimum of 6 members and certainly have no problems with the finer Struck doors.





And here is the test run. Everything works and I can control 0-1800 rpm .