RC Tanks Australia Forum

Ok first thing to note is the difference between the circuit in you tank and the main electricity. Your tank uses DC current whilst your mains is AC current. With AC current the flow of electrons is alternating very rapidly back and forth there is NO positive and no negative. In your tank you are using DC or direct current whereby the flow of electrons is constant in one direction.

In our AC mains supply we have 3 wires, two for the current and an earth or ground wire which is exactly that - it is a wire that has a direct connection to the earth. Near you fuse box outside you will see a wire coming out and attached to a metal stake driven into the ground. This is your protection from shock - rather than passing through your body the current will take the path of least resistance and go into the ground.

In a DC circuit there are only 2 wires, positive supply and the negative side of the battery. This negative side is often called "ground/earth" which is confusing as it does not connect to ground. There is no metal stake driven into the earth that you have to connect your tank circuit to. The red wire is simply a connection to the negative side of your battery.

So for your recoil motor to operate you need to send only 3 wires from the ASP connection. These are V+ (positive), V- (negative) and a signal wire. The motor is connected directly to the battery via Asp and as such will automatically come on and move. As it does so a wheel turns that trips that small switch at the side there and stops the motor in the ready to fire position. When you fire the signal wire provides BREIF pulse of current to the side of the motor blocked by the switch which cause the motor to turn the wheel past the switch. Once the wheel is past the switch the switch turns on again and carries the barrel back to the ready to fire position before the switch is again tripped into the off position.

The reason factory wiring is soooo complicated is because to the original cost cutting decision of Heng Long to have both the elevation motor and bb/recoil motors share wires. Since Asp treats these motors separately you need a far simpler wiring setup; 2 wires for the elevation motor and 3 for recoil.

Cheers
KG

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rctanksaustralia.com

Matthew's right - I'm a biologist, failed Physics at Uni. Certainly don't feel comfortable taking about electricity to anyone. Only learnt all this stuff as I saw a need for a better tank control unit. Coral reef ecology on the other hand - bring it on..

Cheers
KG

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rctanksaustralia.com

Hopefully this diagram should show exactly how simple it is to connect the Asiatam/Taigen recoil motor unit to Asp and how the factory wiring is far too complicated. Asp makes things much easier not more complicated.



Cheers
Kevin G

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rctanksaustralia.com

G'day lads, I too have gone the way of the Taigen unit, but into the new H/L electronics out of the T-90
Thought I would see if I could get it all to work using no knowledge, no aftermarket boards, and minimal piss-farting around
Nope, that was waaayy too much wishful thinking.
Looking at Mr Phish's diagram and description, this re-do on the wiring might work.

Have another question though, on the ASP board, how does the board know when the barrel is 'fired' to supply corresponding sound at the right time without the auxilliary microswitch to tell it ?
Im sure I will regret the answer as it will cause a headache to this 'special needs' electronic type, but Im really struggling to get my Taigen recoil/elevation combo working.

Any advice or direction is greatly and humbly appreciated.

Cheers

Herman

Hey Herman

Unless H/L have invented some magic that allows for the electronics to see into the future the only way to sync sound and projectile fire is via feedback. H/L's primary focus is airsoft and this is the overriding factor on their board design. This feedback is cheaply provided by the microswitch at the back of the airsoft/recoil unit. For IR or scale modellers this is always going to be flawed as the flash and sound will always come AFTER the recoil back is complete. To be as cheap as possible this is how the system works in the H/L electrics for BOTH airsoft and IR.

H/L System
Fire initiated - causes recoil or airsoft motos to wind up - airsoft motor reaches the limit and trips switch and fires projectile OR in IR - recoil motor snaps back and triggers microswitch. All the switch does is provide a temporary connection to ground (V-). When the controller registers this it initiates the sound and the nasty nasty track recoil.

HOWEVER, ASP is different in that there are 2 operating modes - Airsoft OR I/R

When set in Airsoft mode Asp acts similar to the H/L system and waits for the micro switch signal to trigger the sound and thus syncs with the firing of the projectile.

When set in I/R or realistic mode the sequence is correct. Initiate fire and the flash goes off, barrel recoil is triggered and the sound is activated. There is no need for feedback as we are not waiting for the airsoft pellet to be shot out. There is no need for the microswitch at all.

So I'll let you decide which system infact has minimal piss-farting around. The 5-6 wires needed for Asp or the Medusa like jumble of wires needed to hook up to the HL system

Cheers
KG

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rctanksaustralia.com

Hi Kevin,
Its been a while since i fist asked about Taigen recoil, and with your help it is working great
I have another ASP2 and are not sure how to get the Heng Long recoil wired.
I know the HL recoil is not accurate, but at this stage it is better than none.
Two wires come from a small recoil motor ( not sure which is - or
+ ) and two wires from either side of a microswitch located at the back of the recoil.

I am thinking that from the recoil output on Asp2 , one wire goes to the + recoil motor, another (sig-) goes to the other side of the motor, and the third wire from asp recoil (VO) goes to the micro switch . From the other side of the microswitch the wire goes back to the neg side of the motor ( same side as the sig- ).
This is basically the same as the Taigen wiring.

Do you think this is correct ?
I don't want to do it half arsed and connect up wires not knowing what the result will be.
Thanks for your help, Cheers Afrikakorps.
Steve

Hi Steve

The H/L recoil is not a recoil system at all - just a modified airsoft system. The H/L recoil requires the controller to provide a long period of power to the motor. Real recoil requires only a short burst of power. With Asp the recoil motor connection also doubles as the LED flash connection so the pulse of power supplied is only short.

I would not waste any time with it. The servo mod takes less than 1 hour and costs less than $5. You will spend far more hours if you try to wire in the HL recoil

Cheers
KG

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rctanksaustralia.com

Hi Kevin,
In the back of my mind i knew the answer was going to be replace the HL recoil with a servo. It was always going to work smoother and look better anyway.
I was just not sure about the wiring and didn't know about the pulse timing.
Thanks for explaining it to me, now i know the best way to get servo recoil.

Cheers
Steve